Au Cochon de Lait (the Sucking-Pig) is a vestige from the golden era of Parisian slaughter-houses of la Villette when the neighborhood bistros bore the names of livestock. There was le Mouton Blanc (the White Sheep) , le Bélier d’Argent (the Silver Ram) , le Cochon d’Or (the Gold Pig) , each specializing in a type of meat. «Here, our customers were the slaughterers. They had their lockers in the back room to put away their blood stained aprons. They brought their meat and only paid one franc and fifty cents for the roasting. The service was handled in a single line and as soon as a table was free, another took his place. » recalls Pascal Teyssedre, the owner of this surviving but bon vivant bistro. To understand this all you need to do is walk through the door.
His father, an Auvergne native, started up this business 43 years ago. Faithful to his roots, the son is still at the helm and tries not to divert from what gave the bistro its reputation. This bistro uses fresh regional products with attractive prices. The main specialty here is l’Onglet Villette (12,80 €). The undivided hanging tenderloin served with knife-cut home fries melts in your mouth but the rump steak with morels in its homemade sauce deserves honorable mention as well. The hungrier patrons can opt for the rib roast for two at 35,50€.
The owner’s south western roots can be observed in the confit de canard (preserved duck) or caille au foie gras (quail with foie gras) as well as the sausage and aligot straight from the co-op farm Jeune Montagne. Speaking of which, it was at the Cochon de Lait that fashion designer Kenzo discovered Auvergne’s emblematic dish, mashed potatoes with cheese, which he relished.
The regional cuisine bistro, Au Cochon de Lait, offers a small selection of counter wines. In their selection you can find a few Brouilly, Sancerre and Cheverny at very appealing prices which will accompany your meal perfectly in this delightful bistro.
23 av Corentin Cariou
Phone : (33) 1 40 36 85 84
Métro : Porte de la Villette ou Corentin Cariou
-Service on lunch - Closed on Sunday
Prices : From 15 to 22€